Let’s take a look at the anatomy of a car battery:

• Battery Case: The case is polypropylene resin, which holds the battery plates, cast-on straps and electrolyte. It’s designed to minimize vibration impact and extend battery life.
• Battery Plates: The element consists of stacked alternating positive and negative plates. The plates are connected at the top by a cast-on strap that is welded to the plates. The elements fit into the individual cells of each battery.
• Battery Paste: The paste is a lead oxide mixture that creates both lead dioxide and sponge lead. It adheres to the positive and negative battery grids.
• Battery Terminal/Bushing: The terminals are connected to the positive strap and the negative strap of the end cells, and are the interfacing point between the battery and the vehicle’s electrical system.
• Battery Acid: The acid is a high-purity solution of sulfuric acid and water.
• Cast-on Strap for Batteries: The cast-on straps are welded to the top of each element to provide an electrical connection to the terminals.
• Battery Negative Plate: The negative plate contains a metal grid with spongy lead active material.
• Battery Separator: The separator is a polyethylene material that separates the positive plates from the negative plates to provide an efficient flow of electrical current.
• Positive Battery Plate: The positive plate contains a metal grid with lead dioxide active material.
• Lid on Battery: The lid is made of polypropylene resin and sealed to the battery case.

But how exactly does a car battery work?

The car battery provides the jolt of electricity necessary to power all the electrical components in your vehicle. Talk about a pretty huge responsibility. Without battery power, your car, as you’ve probably noticed, won’t start.

Most car batteries rely on a lead-acid chemical reaction to get things moving and grooving. These batteries fall into the “SLI” category. SLI stands for “starting, lighting, and ignition.” This type of battery provides short bursts of energy in order to power your lights, accessories, and engine. Once the battery jolts the engine to life, power for the car is supplied by the alternator. Most vehicles come with a generic SLI battery from the factory.

A typical SLI battery has six cells. Each cell has two plates, or grids: one is made of lead, the other of lead dioxide. Each cell is able to produce about 2-volts of energy. In most car batteries you have six cells, and therefore a 12-volt battery.

The plates are submerged in sulphuric acid that triggers a reaction between the two plates. In scientific terms, the acid acts as a catalyst.

This acid will trigger a reaction on the lead dioxide plate, causing the plate to produce two things: ions and lead sulphate.

The ions produced by the lead dioxide plate react to the adjacent plate to produce hydrogen and lead sulphate.

The result is a chemical reaction that produces electrons. The electrons race around the plates and generate electricity. The electricity flows out of the battery terminals to start your engine, turn on your headlights, and play the radio.

This chemical reaction is entirely reversible, which is why you can jumpstart your battery and continue to charge it throughout the duration of its life. By applying current to the battery at just the right voltage, lead and lead dioxide will form on the plates and you can reuse your battery, over and over again!

Ready to find the best battery replacement for your needs? Check out RECOR line of vehicle batteries and the different features each option offers. It doesn’t matter if your priority is power, dependability, or value – we’ve got a battery for you.

Although a battery that won’t hold a charge is a clear indicator that it’s time for a replacement, you probably have some kind of issue that needs to be dealt with before you start worrying about installing an auxiliary battery. It’s perfectly safe to install a second battery, provided that you follow the right procedures for wiring and battery placement, but it won’t necessarily fix your problem.

The main reason to install a second battery is to provide an “engine off” power source for devices like inverters, coolers, portable refrigerators, aftermarket radios, headrest DVD players, lighting, etc. – all of which are operated when the vehicle’s engine is not running. A second battery will power these accessories without draining the primary battery, which your vehicle relies upon at start-up. Thus, if you run a lot of electronics when your car is off (i.e. high performance audio, camping, tailgating entertainment, etc), then installing a high capacity battery or a second battery might be the end of it. If not, then you’ll want to check for a parasitic drain (and fix it) before you do anything else.

Another reason to install an extra battery is in case you’re operating a heavy-duty electrical device (like an electric winch) that pulls an incredible amount of power. Winches can often require 300-400 amps of current when they’re pulling as hard as they can, which can quickly overwhelm a stock battery (even if the engine is revving). If you’re winching a lot, a 2nd battery is a nice insurance policy (only an upgraded alternator is a good idea too – see below).

If you have a high performance audio system that you enter in competitions, or you just like to use it when your car isn’t running, then you may want to add a second battery. This is perfectly safe, although it’s important to follow wiring and installation best practices. The second battery should be wired in parallel with the original battery, and most car audio competition experts will suggest that you buy “matched” batteries instead of wiring a high performance battery into a configuration that includes an existing battery that’s already old and tired.

The battery cables should be the thickest gauge you can reasonably use, and you need to be really careful if you place the second battery inside the passenger compartment of your vehicle.

Since batteries can and do explode, the battery should either be placed in the engine compartment, the trunk, or inside a solidly built speaker box if it has to be inside the passenger compartment. Of course, you’ll typically want to locate it as close as possible to your amplifier.

In some cases, you’ll be better off with a single, high capacity battery than two lower capacity batteries wired in series. You may also be better off with a stiffening cap located close to your amplifier. If you have a problem with your headlights dimming when your music is turned up, then a capacitor will usually do the trick.

However, more reserve capacity in your battery (or batteries) is what you’re typically looking for if you’re entering your system in competitions.

The other main reason to add a second battery is if you spend a lot of time tailgating or dry camping. In those cases, you’ll typically want to install one or more deep cycle batteries. Unlike regular car batteries, deep cycle batteries are designed to be ran down into a state of “deep discharge” without being damaged. That means you can use your electronic devices all you want without any fear of damaging your battery.

If you do add a second battery for either camping or tailgating, the battery should still be wired in parallel with your original battery. However, you may want to install one or more switches that will allow you to isolate the batteries depending on whether you’re driving or parked. When you’re parked, you’ll want to have it set up so that you only draw power from the deep cycle battery, and when your engine is running, you’ll want to have to option to isolate the deep cycle battery from the charging system. Recreational vehicles are all wired like this with “house” and “chassis” batteries, but you can DIY the same type of setup yourself if you know what you’re doing.

Don’t forget though, it’s all about whether or not you’re experiencing battery problems (i.e. your battery isn’t providing enough power to get your vehicle cranking at start-up). Don’t rush! First be sure that you don’t face any battery issues and then you’ll make the right decision about adding or not extra automotive battery capacity to your vehicle!

[av_button label=’No matter what the battery requirements of your vehicle might be, there is always a RECOR battery that meets them. A Recor battery achieves, for a long period of time, strong and immediate start up of your engine.’ link=’manually,http://www.recorbatteries.gr/en/batteries/cars/’ link_target=’_blank’ size=’large’ position=’center’ icon_select=’no’ icon=’ue800′ font=’entypo-fontello’ color=’red’ custom_bg=’#444444′ custom_font=’#ffffff’]

Source: lifewire.com, projectlm.com

For sure anyone who watched a lot of spy dramas or thrillers will wonder what we are saying, as the scene with a captured hero, restrained and helpless to resist while his captor hooks up a pair of jumper cables to a car battery is so familiar! As dutiful consumers of media, we’ve been conditioned to know that means our hero is about to be tortured, possibly to within an inch of his life.  But let’s see why this is just another one of the tricks Hollywood uses for offering a more engaging story and a bigger spectacle, as a car battery actually can’t electrocute you.

The math can get a little complicated, but the main reason that you can safely touch the positive and negative terminals of a typical car battery, and walk away unscathed, has to do with the voltage of the battery. Traditional car batteries are capable of delivering a lot of amperage in short bursts, which is the main reason that ancient lead acid technology is still in use. Starter motors require a lot of amperage to run, and lead acid batteries are good at providing short, intense bursts of amperage. However, there’s a world of difference between the coils of a starter motor and the high contact resistance of the human body.

Simply put, voltage can be thought of as “pressure,” and the 12 volts of a car battery simply don’t provide enough pressure to push any significant amount of amperage through the contact resistance of your skin.

That’s why you can touch both terminals of a car battery without receiving a shock, although you may feel a tingle if your hands are wet. Certainly nothing like the confession-inducing, potentially-deadly, electrical torture you may have seen in the movies or on television, though.

Be careful though, as not all car batteries are 12V. There was a huge push in the early 2000 s to move from 12V systems to 42V systems, which would have been much more dangerous to work with, but the switch never really materialized for a variety of reasons.

However, hybrid and electric vehicles often come with two batteries: a traditional lead acid battery for starter, lighting and ignition (SLI) functions, and a much higher voltage battery or battery pack to run the electric motor or motors. These batteries often use lithium-ion or nickel metal hydride technology instead of lead acid, and they are often rated at 200 or more volts.

The good news is that hybrid and electric vehicles typically don’t keep their high voltage battery packs anywhere that you’re likely to run into them on accident, and they almost always use some type of color code to warn you about high voltage wires. In most cases, high voltage wires are color coded orange, although some use blue instead, so it’s a good idea to verify what color your vehicle uses before you try to work on it.

12-Volt Car batteries are not harmless, though. There are many ways you can be injured by car batteries:

The main danger associated with car batteries is explosion, which can occur due to a phenomenon known as “gassing,” where the battery releases flammable hydrogen gas. If the hydrogen gas is ignited by a spark, the entire battery can explode, showering you with sulfuric acid. This is why it’s so important to follow the correct procedure when hooking up jumper cables or a battery charger.

Another danger associated with car batteries has to do with accidentally bridging the terminals, or accidentally bridging any +B wire or connector, like the starter solenoid, to ground. While a car battery can’t pump a dangerous amount of amperage into your body, a metal wrench has far less resistance, and will tend to grow extremely hot, and may even become welded in place, if it bridges battery positive to ground. That’s pretty much bad news all around.

Keep in mind that, although you can’t be electrocuted by simply touching the terminals of a regular car battery, due to the low voltage, you can receive a nasty shock from other components of a traditional automotive electrical system. For instance, in ignition systems that use a cap and rotor, an ignition coil is used to provide the tremendous amount of voltage that’s required to push a spark across the air gap of a spark plug. If you run afoul of that voltage, typically by touching a spark plug wire or coil wire with frayed insulation, while also touching ground, you will definitely feel a bite.

Source: lifewire.com (Jeremy Laukkonen)

THE ROLE OF START-STOP BATTERY

Stop start vehicles require enhanced batteries due to the frequent start and stop events at traffic lights. Our Start-stop series has the enhanced durability and battery life needed to withstand such driving environments.

The Start/stop system controls the engine when the vehicle is not in movement and restarts the vehicle when it begins its acceleration. This technology can help avoid unnecessary energy loss caused by engine idling and has been proven to cut fuel consumption by 5-15%. Start-stop systems are expected to grow up to 23 million vehicles by 2017.

Although stop/start idle ­systems have been used on ­hybrid vehicles for many years, a growing number of non-­hybrid late-model import models are also being equipped with this fuel-saving technology. In 2015, almost every major automaker offered one or more models with stop/start idle control. Many experts predict that within the next two years, over half of all vehicles sold in the U.S. will be factory-equipped with stop/start systems.

What does this mean to you? It means a growing service ­opportunity to diagnose and repair these systems as they come out of warranty in the years ahead. The 2015 model year marked the tipping point where stop/start technology really took off. You’ll find it on everything from entry-level cars such as the Kia Rio (with Eco package) to the Acura TLX and various Mazda models, to top-of-the-line luxury and performance cars such as Audi, BMW, Jaguar Mercedes-Benz, Porsche and VW. And as each new model year comes along, stop/start technology will become almost universal.

Stop/start technology has been around for nearly a decade on full hybrid vehicles such as the Toyota Prius and Honda Insight. It’s also used on many “mild hybrids” such as the Honda ­Accord, Civic and CRZ hybrids, Hyundai Sonata hybrid, various Lexus hybrids, Nissan Altima ­hybrid, Toyota Camry and Highlander ­hybrids, and VW Touareg hybrid. On these applications, the high-voltage hybrid battery is used for the stop/start function. It may also provide additional power assist when accelerating, depending on how the system is configured.

What’s different about the next generation stop/start systems is that the idle shut-off feature is being incorporated into non-hybrid cars, trucks and SUVs. In other words, most of these applications will not use a special high-voltage nickel-metal-hydride or lithium ion battery, but instead will get their cranking power from an AGM (absorbent glass mat) 12-volt lead-acid battery.

Some of these new applications (BMW and VW, for example) actually use two separate batteries: a 12-volt AGM battery for cranking the engine, and a second conventional 12-volt wet-cell, lead-acid battery to power the onboard electronics. On the BMW and VW applications, the batteries are mounted in the trunk (one on each side). What’s more, each battery may be charged independently of the other depending on electrical load and demand – which will complicate charging diagnosis if either battery is not being maintained at full charge, or there is a key-off power drain that’s running down one or both batteries.

WHY STOP/START?

There is no federal rule that ­requires stop/start idle control on any new vehicle. It’s just one of the many steps that automakers are having to take to achieve the Corporate Average Fuel Economy goal of 52.5 mpg by 2025 (which is required by law). In Europe, where fuel prices are considerably higher, about 60% of late-model vehicles have stop/start idle control systems. Although we are currently enjoying a temporary drop in gasoline prices, the push for higher fuel economy numbers is more about global climate change and reducing CO2 emissions into the ­environment.

Stop/start systems (also called “idle stop” or “idle stop & go”) use inputs from the steering wheel position sensor, vehicle speed sensor, throttle position sensor and brake pedal position sensor to determine when the vehicle has come to a halt and will likely ­remain stopped for a period of time. The powertrain control module (PCM) will then shut off the engine by killing fuel and ignition. When the driver lifts his/her foot off the brake pedal (or depresses the clutch pedal if the vehicle has a manual transmission), the PCM starts the engine so when the driver pushes down on the accelerator pedal the engine will ­respond and drive the car as if nothing has happened.

Most of these systems will restart the engine in less than half a second, ­allowing a more-or-less seamless stop/start function. On the 2015 Acura TLX, active engine mounts are used to offset and dampen the engine starting vibrations.

So how much fuel does idle stop/start actually save? It depends on how the vehicle is driven. In an urban setting with heavy stop-and-go traffic, a stop/start system can improve overall fuel economy as much as 10 to 12%. Most automakers estimate stop/start idle control saves the average motorist about 6% on his/her fuel bill. For vehicles that are driven mostly on the open road and spend very little time stopped, the fuel savings are ­minimal.

On many applications, the stop/start system can be temporarily disabled by pressing a button. On some vehicles, the stop/start function will remain off until the driver pushes the button to turn it back on.

On all stop/start systems, an indicator light on the instrument panel tells the driver when the ­engine has stopped. Consequently, you may have to educate some customers as to what the indicator light means and how the system operates.

HOW IT WORKS

For a stop/start system to function normally, the ­engine management system has to look at how the vehicle is being driven. It monitors engine speed, temperature and load, as well as vehicle speed, and the positions of the brake and accelerator pedals, steering wheel and transmission gear selector. The PCM may also consider accessory electrical loads on the engine (headlights, wipers, state of battery charge, etc.) and A/C cooling requirements. Using all of these inputs, the control module will then ­decide whether or not to shut the engine off when the vehicle stops.

With most stop/start systems, the engine will shut off after the vehicle has been motionless for a few seconds if the transmission is in drive and the driver is holding his/her foot on the brake pedal. Some systems may even anticipate a stop by shutting off the engine when the driver lifts his/her foot off the accelerator pedal when the vehicle is decelerating. Read more. 

On most systems, the stop/start function may not occur if the cranking battery voltage is low (less than 75%), if there is a high A/C cooling load due to high ambient temperatures, or if there are ­usually high electrical loads on the charging system (lights, ­defrosters, heater, etc., all on at the same time).

On Mazda’s “i-stop” system, the starter motor is used to crank the engine. The PCM also knows the position of the crankshaft and the engine’s firing order, so it also injects some fuel into a cylinder that is past top dead center on its power stroke and fires the spark plug to give the crank an extra kick. This makes the restart much easier and faster, ­reducing the load on the starter and the time it takes to restart the engine to 0.35 seconds.

OTHER CHANGES

The new next generation non-­hybrid stop/start ­systems also require some additional changes to the vehicle itself. In addition to a stronger AGM battery with more reserve ­capacity than a standard battery, a beefed-up starter motor is also required to handle the increased number of startup cycles. Others use a two-way alternator that serves as both a generator and a starter motor to crank the engine.

The main and rod bearings on some engine applications may also have a scuff-resistant, friction-­reducing coating to reduce the risk of metal-to-metal contact from frequent restarts. When the engine shuts off, oil pressure drops to zero. Most late-model cars use relatively thin oil (0W-20, 0W-40, 5W-20, etc.) so the oil may drain out of the bearings fairly quickly depending on oil temperature, bearing clearances and how long the vehicle sits without running. The coating on the bearings provides an extra layer of protection until oil pressure can restore ­normal oil pressure and flow ­following a restart.

On some applications, auxiliary electric pumps may be used to keep coolant circulating to maintain heat during cold weather or to supply hydraulic pressure to the automatic transmission. On a full hybrid vehicle, such as a Toyota Prius, an electric A/C compressor is used to maintain cooling when the engine is not running. We will likely see more of these electric A/C compressors being used on some next generation stop/start non-hybrid applications for the same purpose.

Another change you’ll find on some applications is an auxiliary module that maintains constant voltage to key electronics when the engine is in cranking mode. On a 2013 Kia Rio, for example, there is a DC-to-DC converter behind the glove box. The DC-to-DC converter senses system voltage and maintains steady voltage to the main power relay so system voltage doesn’t drop when the engine is cranking. If this module goes bad, it may cause the radio to stop working when the ­engine restarts due to low system voltage.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG

Stop/start systems may fail in a number of ways and for a variety of reasons. The system may not shut the engine off when it should. The stop/start system may kill the engine, but fail to restart it when it should. Or, the system voltage may drop noticeably when cranking the engine.

The underlying problem may be electronic (PCM or other control module fault), electrical (low battery voltage, weak battery or poor cable connections), mechanical (bad starter motor or alternator, damaged flywheel teeth, etc.) or sensor related (bad brake pedal, accelerator pedal, throttle position or other sensor). The onboard diagnostic system should detect any major system or sensor faults and set an appropriate code, but as we all know, many faults never set a code.

If a stop/start system is not functioning normally, start with the ­basics. Check the charge and condition of the battery, check the battery cables (clean and tighten as needed to ensure a minimal voltage drop across the connections), check charging output, and use your scan tool to check the function of key sensors that provide input for the stop/start system.

Your scan tool sensor data should tell you if the brake pedal and accelerator pedal sensors are ­responding when the pedals move. Ditto for the steering position sensor. Is the vehicle speed sensor providing an accurate signal? Does the transmission gear selector show the proper gear when it’s moved from one position to another?

If you find one or more fault codes (which could be powertrain, body, suspension or other), follow the vehicle manufacturer’s diagnostic procedures to isolate each fault. This means accessing the service information data on the OEM website or via any of the aftermarket data services. Also, check for any TSBs that may relate to the problem.

At some point down the road, we may also see computer reflashes as a “fix” for certain stop/start issues. This will require a scan tool that is capable of doing reflashes and gaining access to the OEM ­updated calibration.

SERVICE PRECAUTIONS

The next generation stop/start systems on non-­hybrid vehicles are 12 volts, so there are no special precautions to follow other than to make sure the ­engine is off if it has a pushbutton start and/or smart keyfob.

With full and mild hybrid vehicles, however, you do have to watch out for the high-voltage battery. Hybrid voltages may range from 120 up to 330 volts, depending on the application. This kind of voltage can be deadly, so avoid any contact with the orange high-voltage hybrid wiring and battery until the battery has been isolated. Follow the vehicle manufacturer’s procedures for isolating the ­battery. Insulated gloves capable of withstanding up to 1,000 volts are required if working on a live system, and insulated hand tools are recommended.

For non-hybrid 12-volt applications with stop/start, you can use the same hand tools, diagnostic tools, battery and charging system test equipment that you use on other vehicles.

Since most of the next generation stop/start ­applications come factory-equipped with an AGM battery, you should replace same with same if the battery has failed. Substituting a less expensive conventional wet-cell lead-acid battery is not ­recommended.

AGM batteries typically provide greater cranking power thanks to their denser design. They also have a much longer service life than ordinary wet-cell lead-acid batteries because they have no liquid electrolyte in their cells. The electrolyte is held in spongy mats between the lead cell plates. This not only makes such batteries spill-proof, but also less vulnerable to outgassing and loss of electrolyte over time.

Another difference is that AGM batteries have a slightly different charging rate and voltage. AGM batteries recharge about 15% faster than a conventional battery (which is important for maintaining battery charge for reliable starting). A fully charged AGM battery will typically read 12.8 to 13 volts or higher (versus 12.65 volts for a conventional ­battery). A reading of 12.5 to 12.8 volts indicates a 75% charge. A reading of less than 12.5 volts means the battery is low and needs to be recharged and/or load tested.

A low-voltage reading may mean the charging system is not producing enough current to maintain battery charge, or there is a key-off current drain on the battery that’s causing it to run down. This may require testing charging output and/or checking for an unusual key-off power drain.

Battery condition can be determined by load testing or by using a capacitance tester on the battery. For accurate results, a load test requires a battery to be 75% charged. Charge doesn’t matter if you’re using a capacitance tester on an ordinary battery, but with an AGM battery it does. The battery should be 75% charged because an AGM battery has less internal resistance than an ordinary battery.

AGM batteries can be damaged by overcharging. To reduce the risk of this happening, use a smart charger that has a different setting for AGM batteries.

If a starter motor has failed, make sure the replacement is a quality reman or new unit, not a cheap rebuilt that won’t stand up to repeated start cycles. A stop/start system can really work a starter motor to death, so it’s important to use a starter that’s robust enough to handle the job.

Do not hesitate to contact Recor Batteries for more information about the range of Start Stop batteries, as our range of Start Stop batteries are perfect for stop start vehicles with heavily equipped electronic technology. They have many benefits that include:

• Increased stop life cycle
• Increased Charge acceptance
• Increased Starting Power
• Optimal safety for passenger compartment installation

Source: www.tomorrowstechnician.com